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by F G. WATSON
The peace and tranquility normally associated with the quiet
fields that stretch along the river Lagan would regularly be
disturbed by the bustle and throng of people attending the
race-meetings. Since the 18th century the tenants on the
Watson farms on the Cockhill Road and Dunnygarton Lane would
have been subjected to the influx of visitors and travellers
from all over Ireland converging on the race course. On main
roads and bye roads, they came on horse and on foot and in all
types of transport from splendid coaches, gigs and traps to
the tradesman's cart specially fitted up for the occasion.
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The gifted amateur James Moore M.D.
Hon. R.H.S. (1819-1883) provides us with two
accomplished and vivid watercolour sketches of the Maze
racecourse
dated August 3rd 1852, and 14th July 1868.
Reproduced by permission of the Ulster Museum |
Dunnygarton Lane meandered through the course itself and it is
easy to imagine the carnival atmosphere that would prevail on
the occasion of a holiday in the general area with excitement
for rich and poor alike. Farmer, weaver, artisan and labourer
would mingle with the Gentry on these great occasions as they
headed for the colourful flag bedecked tents of the stewards,
saddlers, fortune tellers, gambling side shows and taverns.
The origins of the course are much older as a patent to
establish a Corporation of Horsebreeders for Down had been
granted by James II and the racecourse at Downpatrick had been
formed in 1685. When William III, the Prince of Orange,
visited Hillsborough Castle as the guest of William Hill he
issued a letter to Christopher Carleton the Collector of
Customs at Belfast granting £100 to be known as the Kings
Plate and to be competed for at Hillsborough.
William Hill established the course at the Maze and his heir
the Right Honourable Michael Hill implemented improvements and
took a keen interest in racing blood stock. Walter Harris
writing in 1744 gives us a brief description of the course.
"The Maze-Course, a place set apart for the publick diversions
of horse racing, is upwards of a mile North of the town, near
the banks of the River Lagan. A rising hill in the middle of
the course, about two miles in circumference, give the
spectators a full view of the whole field, and on the top of
the hill a wooden tower is erected, open on all sides, for
spectators to sit and view the course."
This original tower or stand was a wooden structure but was
replaced by a round white washed stone tower on Tower Hill.
The original hill formed a natural vantage point for the
spectators and in earlier times it was not unusual for them to
cut a flat hearth into the slope and cook over a lighted fire
while they viewed the races.
The slope of the ground was the cause of many a fall as the
crowd surged forward with excitement to see the closing stages
of a race. Just before the races in July 1775 Mr Perfect an
itinerant Methodist Minister preached at Halftown and during
the sermon warned his congregation not to attend the
racecourse, which was the scene of so many crimes and numerous
calamities. The following eye witness account is provided by
Patrick Cunningham who ignored the warning (horse racing being
his favourite sport) but refrained from attending the Sunday
races.
"The first day of the races presented a most shocking scene
perhaps not less than one hundred thousand people all
confusion and uproar. This was occasioned by a quarrel between
the men of Broomhedge and those of Hillsborough. They armed
themselves with whatever weapons they could get, and rushed
upon each other with the ferocity of wild beasts, and fought
with the greatest desperation. Such rage and clamour I never
witnessed before. In a little time many of them were weltered
in their own blood. I remember one only killed on the spot,
but several died afterwards of their wounds."
Cunningham's assessment of the crowd is questionable but the
racecourse was at its peak between 1811 and 1825 and its
patrons included Lord Castlereagh, The marquis of Downshire,
The Marguis of Donegall, Lord Portarlington, Lord O'Neill.
Colonel Sparrow of Tandragee Castle, Colonel Cope of
Loughgall, J. W. Maxwell, Nicholas Price, Colonel Forde. Sir
S. May, Sir Robert Bateson, Messrs Whaley, McCance, Savage,
Batt, Verner, Greg, Martin, Fivey, Moore, Nugent, Hall and
Shaw indeed the men of note in the province.
James Watson Esq. of Brookhill was a popular leading huntsman
and local contestant at both Downpatrick and the Maze. His
last race at the Maze was on 12th October 1825 when he
competed for the County Cup on a twenty year old favourite of
his called Violet. He was at this time over 60 years old and
retired as a winner. Jockeys were used at the course but in
addition Gentlemen such as Watson and his brother-in-law Mr.
Wakefield rode their own horses.
Over the years the standing of the Maze as a Social occasion
reduced as it was plagued by criminal elements both male and
female. Personal attacks and robbery were identified with the
periodical meetings and on a further occasion murder, despite
the efforts of the Marquis of Downshire. This occurred when a
serious fight developed and the Marquis of Downshire attempted
to defuse the situation by having one of the ruffians removed
from the ground in his own carriage. The man a strong powerful
individual was incensed by his Lordship's action and breaking
loose jumped from the carriage and returned to the affray
where he was stabbed to death. When his pregnant wife was
informed she took ill and also died.
Race days would have been exciting times for the Watson
families of the area as they punctuated the routine of the
working year. With the crowds departed the fields would resume
their quiet peaceful form, just as they remain to-day for
Mamie Hewitt nee Watson whose house overlooks the course, and
very much the same as they were when Richard Watson tended his
cow and paid one shilling for grazing rights as is recorded in
an account of grazers on the Maze Course in year 1777.
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